Nothing compares to tomatoes from your garden. However, their cultivation is not without difficulties, because this delicious fruiting vegetable, native to South America, loves heat and sun. A small greenhouse is ideal for these sun worshipers and provides them with perfect growing conditions.
Another advantage is that in potting soil instead of normal garden soil and in a dry location, tomatoes grow better and are not as susceptible to pests such as root lice or cork disease. In addition, the dreaded downy mildew, transmitted by rain and fungal spores present in the soil, has virtually no chance thanks to the tomato greenhouse. So, nothing stands in the way of a rich harvest!
Materials and tools
Tools
- GTA 26 battery garden pruner
- Chainsaw like the new MSA 70
- crusher
- Drill with the appropriate bits for the screws
- Wood drill (optional)
- Batteries / thank you
- Screwdriver
- Secateur
Accessories
- Established
- Angle ruler, square, etc.
- Pencil
- Tape measure
- Brush
- Wood oil or wood stain
- Rags
- Stepladder or stepladder
Material
- Furniture castors (diameter 50 mm, 2 with brake, 2 without brake)
- Drill bit (diameter 12 mm)
- Hose, diameter 10 mm, approx. 1 m length (e.g. for aquariums, animal
shop) - Silicone (for outdoor use)
Screw
- 12x120mm
- 12x100mm
- 82x50mm
- 16x20mm
- Round head 36 x 15 mm
Boards and plywood for the planter
- 8 x 1500 x 100 x 18 mm (long side)
- 8 x 564 x 100 x 18 mm (short side)
- 1 x 1.464 x 564 x 18 mm (bottom plate, cut to size at a DIY store)
Squared timber (posts) for roof and gable
- 4 x 1680 x 57 x 57mm
- 2x564x57x57mm
- 4 x 1464 x 57 x 57mm
- 2 x 340 x 57 x 57 mm (gable, with 45 degree miter)
- 2 x 400 x 57 x 57 mm (gable, 45 degree miter)
Perspex (acrylic glass)
- 1 x 1464 x 1355 x 2 mm (rear wall)
- 2 x 1464 x 450 x 2 mm (roof)
Outwit
- 1 x 2,500 x 1,500 mm, rubber or unlaminated pond film
PPE (personal protective equipment)
- Protective gloves
- Safety glasses
- Cut protection shoes
- Cut protection pants
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE Preparation and assembly guide
First of all, prepare the necessary materials and equipment in the workshop and you are ready to go. Start by cutting the boards for the planter; a small, lightweight cordless pruner such as the STIHL GTA 26 is ideal for this. For larger poles, a more powerful cordless chainsaw, like the STIHL MSA 70, is more suitable.
Step 1: Measure and cut to size
Fix the boards on the workbench and measure the required lengths: 8 boards with a length of 1500 mm and 8 boards with a length of 564 mm should be available at the end. Now cut the boards accordingly with a clean and smooth cut using the cordless pruner.
Step 2: Cutting Posts for the Gable
Now cut the roof posts. Use a chainsaw for this, such as the STIHL MSA 70 cordless chainsaw. Clamp the squared timber, measure the appropriate lengths and saw the posts to fit. For the gable posts, mark a 45 degree angle at one end with the angle ruler. Use a smooth, clean cut to saw first the miter and then the squared timber to the appropriate length: you will need two pieces 340mm long and two pieces 400mm long. Length is measured from the tip.
Step 3: Smooth the Cut Edges
Grind all cut edges with a manual grinder (like a cordless grinder) or by hand with sandpaper so that no splinters or wood fibers remain that could hurt you later.
Step 4: Applying Oil or Varnish
So that the tomato pot is then protected from bad weather, humidity and infestations of fungi or pests from the outside, treat it on all sides and cut edges with a wood stain or oil for environmentally friendly wood. Allow the varnish or oil to penetrate well and dry thoroughly according to the manufacturer’s instructions before beginning assembly.
Step 5: Assemble the roof frame
Start with the roof structure and screw three of the 1464mm long squared timbers to two of the 564mm long pieces to form a rectangle. To do this you will need six 120mm screws, one on each side of the squared timber. To prevent the wood from splitting, you should pre-drill these and all other screw holes (especially those for large and long screws) with a wood drill. Do not tighten the screws immediately, but only after all the squared timber has been screwed together. This will prevent the frame from warping.
Step 6: Build the Gable
Next, the gable is made, which is placed on the roof: for this purpose, a 400 mm squared beam and a 340 mm long one are screwed together with the angled ends. The two gables are then attached to the last of the four squared wooden elements 1,464 mm long. You will need a total of six screws with a length of 120mm.
Step 7: Planter 1
Now move on to the planter. Start at one of the narrow sides. To do this, you will need two of the squared beams with a length of 1680 mm, eight short boards (564 x 100 mm) and 32 screws with a length of 50 mm. Connect the long square timber to four of the short boards: To do this, first screw the bottom board to the square timber so that it protrudes 18mm beyond the end of the posts. This projection will later cover the lower board with a caliber of 18 mm. A small piece left over from the sawing serves as a spacer. Then attach the three remaining boards to the posts without spacing them. Each side of the board is secured with two screws. Make sure the screws are drilled everywhere with the same spacing, to create a uniform look later.
When the first side part is completed, assemble the second in the same way.
Step 8: Planter 2
Place the two side pieces vertically so you can screw in the long boards that complete the planter. Proceed in the same way as for screwing the boards to the narrow sides; here too you will need 32 additional screws of 50mm length. Start with the bottom board, which is also screwed to the post with an 18mm overhang, before attaching the remaining three boards. Now tilt the entire construction to the other side to also connect the last side to the boards.
Step 9: Fixing the frame
Now position the tomato shed and screw the framework to the vertical posts with four 100mm screws. To easily access the screws from above, stand on a stepladder or ladder. Make sure it is stable and does not wobble.
Step 10: Attaching the Sprocket
The roof gable is now placed on the frame and screwed. To do this, use four 100 mm long screws, screwed perpendicular to the slope of the roof.
Step 11: Screwing in the Bottom Plate
Little by little, the tomato house begins to take shape. However, to screw in the base plate, lay it on its side again. Place the bottom plate in the gap and screw it from below to the vertical posts using four screws (100mm long). To prevent the bottom plate from subsequently bending downwards due to the weight of the floor, attach it laterally to the bottom boards using 18 50mm long screws – seven on the long sides and two on the sides short. You can drive these small screws into wood without pre-drilling if you use self-tapping screws such as Spax screws.
Step 12: Screwing in the Lower Rollers
The four lower rollers are now screwed in. For this you will need 16 screws (20mm long). The two rollers with brakes are fixed on one of the narrow sides, the other two rollers without brakes on the other narrow side. Then drill about 30 to 40 holes in the base plates with a drill bit (diameter 12 mm) so that excess water can drain off later and there is no waterlogging.
Step 13: Installing the pond film
To make the planter last a long time, cover it with pond foil from the inside. Tip: Place the film briefly in the sun before installation. Then it warms up, becomes soft and is easier to process and bend. Fold the film at the upper edges and staple it with staples at intervals of 10-15 cm.
Step 14: Drain Holes
Then, using a screwdriver, drill holes in the film in places where there is a drainage hole, through which you then insert the pieces of tube cut into lengths of approximately 20 mm.
Step 15: Attach the Roof and Back Wall
Almost finished! The roof and back wall are now added. The roof protects the delicate tomato plants from rain, the back wall from wind and drafts. Tip: Be sure to pre-drill the holes for the screws with which the plexiglass is screwed to the wooden structure, otherwise the plastic will crack. A sharp wood drill is best suited for this purpose. Once all the holes have been pre-drilled – 3 on each side of the gable and 4 others along the ridge – the two sheets of 450 m wide acrylic glass are screwed to the roof. Proceed in the same way for the back wall. Simply drill 6 holes on each of the vertical sides and 4 on the upper horizontal side under the roof. You will need a total of 36 round head screws (15mm long) to attach the 3 sheets of acrylic glass.
Step 16: Sealing
Finally, seal the ridge with silicone to prevent rainwater from seeping between the acrylic glass and the wood.
It’s done – the greenhouse is installed!
Once the silicone has hardened, you can place the tomato pot in its place in the garden, fill it with soil (approximately 280 – 300 liters for the dimensions used here) and plant it.
